Seville | How To Beat The Heat

Metropol Parasol in Plaza Encarnación

It’s barely midday, and already the thermometer is reading meltdownºC. The sun is shining relentlessly, and even the mad dogs have called it a day. Well, okay, it’s not that bad, but Seville does get seriously hot in July and August, and even though you’re already wearing sunscreen and loose clothing and drinking lots of water you’re probably thinking this is a good time to be doing something that doesn’t involve walking around in the mid-afternoon sun. How right you are, and here are a few tips for things to do.

First, and perhaps most obvious, is to find a nice air-conditioned bar and order up a round of one, or both, of those two Sevillano summer staples, Gazpacho and tinto de verano (summer wine). Gazpacho is a cold tomato and cucumber soup, thickened with softened bread, that has been called the “Spanish coca-cola” by super-chef Dani Garcia. An alternative is ajo blanco, a cold soup made from ground almonds and garlic, that has been around much longer than the introduction of tomatoes from the new world. Tinto de verano is a mixture of red wine and fizzy lemonade served over ice, usually with a slice of lemon. It’s like sangría but lighter and more refreshing, and won’t mark you out as a tourist.

Second, go shopping. Not the sort of shopping that involves struggling around with half a dozen heavy bags, but the sort that involves taking advantage of the fact that the shops are air-conditioned to browse as much as you like without having to buy anything (unless you really want to).  Nervión Plaza and the various El Corte Inglés department stores are perfect for indulging in a little retail therapy in air-conditioned comfort.

Take in a movie. The Avenida 5 Cines in Marques de Paradas shows films in original version – and is air-conditioned throughout.

Museums and monuments. The Alcázar palaces and gardens offer plenty of places to take refuge from the sun. Or you could try the Archaeological Museum and the Museum of Popular Culture in the late afternoon, and stroll back through the Maria Luisa Park as it starts to cool down in the evening. Casa Pilatos has shady gardens, and Casa Lebrija a cool Sevillano style patio. You get to look at some cool stuff, too.

If you have kids, the Isla Magica theme park has lots of watery rides and other amusements. A bit pricey, but there’s a discount for only going for the afternoon.

Ice-cream. There are several good ice-cream shops to choose from, including a Ben & Jerry’s in the Campana, but for the best locally made ice-cream in town head for Rayas next to Plaza Cristo de Burgos or Fiorentina in Zaragoza street.

In the evening take advantage of the breeze at higher altitudes and visit one of Seville’s rooftop bars. Roof, atop the Hotel Casa Romana, has a nice eclectic menu and views of the city centre and Metropol Parasol. Both the Doña Maria and the Fontecruz hotels have great views of the cathedral where you can enjoy a cocktail and watch the sun go down.

Of course there’s no place like home, and cooling off in your own veoapartment swimming pool.

Granada | Market Shopping

One of the reasons for renting a holiday apartment, rather than staying in a hotel, is that you don’t have to go out every time you feel like a bite to eat. Self-catering, of course, also means shopping. Granada has plenty of little local shops where you can pick up a loaf of bread or a carton of milk, but if you’re a bit more ambitious, or just want to soak up some of that local colour, head for San Agustín, the central provisions market near the cathedral. The main market building is relatively large and modern, but the stalls still spill out into the surrounding streets, filling them with the hustle and bustle of busy markets everywhere. Come here for all your fresh fruit and veg, bread and pastries, flowers, fish and seafood, and meat and deli products. Right nearby, next to the cathedral, is the herb and spice market, and the air is redolent with paprika and cumin, cinnamon and oregano, and dozens of other exotic smells.

[click on images to enlarge]

The San Agustín Market is located in Plaza San Agustín just behind the Gran Via and is open Monday – Saturday from 10 am until about 2.30 pm. If you miss market hours then you can always go to the El Corte Inglés supermarket in Acera del Darro, which also has a good fish counter and is open 10 am – 10 pm Monday – Saturday.


Seville | Night Concerts in the Alcázar Gardens

One of the most pleasant ways to “beat the heat” in Seville during the summer is to spend an evening in the spectacular gardens of the Alcázar Royal Palace, strolling through the beautifully lit spaces and enjoying a concert.

This year the 13th edition of the Noches en Los Jardines del Real Alcázar boasts 75 concerts with music ranging from traditional and classical to flamenco, folk, blues and jazz. Tickets can be purchased at the palace ticket office in the Patio de Banderas for 4€, or online for 5€. You can buy up to 7 tickets per concert (note: children under 8 are not admitted).

The entrance for the concerts is the Puerta Alcoba, just off calle San Fernando in the Murillo Gardens. Concerts begin at 10.30 sharp (no admittance after 10.25), but you can go inside from 9 o’clock and it’s well worth getting there early to walk around the gardens and enjoy a cold drink at the bar.

Noches en Los Jardines del Real Alcázar
June Programme
July Programme
August Programme

Seville | The Campanario Terrace

If you’re looking for a holiday apartment location in Seville that’s a little out of the ordinary, the Campanario Terrace (bell-tower) may be just what you’re looking for. It’s built alongside the bell tower (originally an 11th century minaret) of the El Salvador church, and the wall of the apartment on that side is the original wall of the minaret. The windows at the back of the apartment look down into the courtyard of the church, and from the terrace, right alongside the bells, there is a superb view of the church itself, from a point of view that most people don’t get to see.

This is a really unique location, and it gives you a sense both of being intimately connected to the history of a place, and a feeling of having privileged access to an almost secret part of the city.

Campanario Terrace

Corpus Christi

Corpus Christi is a religious festival that celebrates the Eucharist as the real body and blood of Christ. It is a moveable feast day held sixty days after Easter Sunday, and this year (2012) falls on Thursday June 7th.

The night before the procession in Seville, the streets are strewn with rosemary and flower petals, balconies are draped with shawls, and shrines are put up at various points along the route, with a competition for the best one, and in the Plaza San Francisco the procession passes through a specially constructed portada (gateway). An unusual feature of the end of the procession is the dance of “Los Seises” performed in the Cathedral by young choirboys in mediaeval style costumes.

The best way to see the shrines and other decorations is to go out early (around 8 am) and walk the route of the procession while there still aren’t too many people about – start at the Cathedral and just follow the trail of rosemary. It’s a great excuse to stretch your legs, get some fresh air and work up an appetite for that morning coffee and toast. The procession starts at 8.30 and finishes back at the Cathedral around noon.

In Granada, Corpus Christi takes place during Feria, so the solemnity of the religious festival is surrounded by a week of dancing and partying. Feria starts on Monday, with the “alumbrao” or switching on of the portada lights at midnight. The day before Corpus is the “la pública” procession, aimed at children and young people, but great fun for adults, too. It is also called “La Tarasca” for its central figure of a woman in the fashion of the day (the costume is always a well-kept secret) riding a dragon, accompanied by giants and demons wearing huge heads who swat at you with leather balloons as they walk by. The Corpus procession draws huge crowds onto the streets before the final weekend of Feria with its horses and flamenco costumes draws the festivities to a close for another year.

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