The Secret of Jamón Ibérico de Bellota

If you’ve ever been to Spain, and been out for tapas, you have probably already sampled the delights of genuine Spanish Iberico ham for yourself, and discovered its unique slightly nutty, slightly sweet taste (and if you haven’t it’s almost worth making the trip for this alone). Either way, though, you may have asked some “meaning of life” style questions, such as, What’s the difference between Iberico and Serrano? What’s the significance of bellota (pronounced bayota)? How do they make this wonderful stuff? And Can I have some more, please? Well we’re going to answer these questions for you. Except the last one – you can ask the barman.

The Pig, The Whole Pig, and Nothing but the Pig

While both Iberico and Serrano (literally mountain ham) are both free range cured pork, Iberico refers exclusively to products made from the native Spanish black pig (also known as pata negra), which has been around in Spain at least since the stone age, while Serrano is usually made from the  European white pig. The Iberico is considered superior for cured meats because its higher fat content, especially on the outside of the ham, allows for longer curing and a richer flavour.

Bellota and the Dehesa

Bellota is Spanish for acorn, and the appearance of this term in the name tells you that this came from a free-range pig fattened on acorns, which is the key factor in giving the fat in the meat its melt-in-the-mouth quality. It also makes it very healthy, as it’s rich in oleic acid, the oil that you find in olives. The Dehesa is the open hillside pasture land, studded with oak trees, mostly holm oak and cork, where the pigs are turned out to forage and fatten about six months before slaughter. To ensure room to roam and plenty of acorns, pig populations are limited to just two per hectare. This also limits supply, and helps keep prices, as well as pigs, healthy. Maintaining this high quality through all the stages of production is the responsibility of the controlling bodies of the four Denominaciones de Origen (D.O.s). The main production areas are in Extramadura, Huelva and Seville in the southwest of Spain, and in recent years tours of the farms and the Dehesa to see the pigs have become increasingly popular.

Curing

After the slaughter, or matanza, in January or February, the parts of the pig that are to be cured – the legs, of course, but also other cuts, including those used to make caña de lomo – are separated and buried in salt for two to three weeks, and then hung up to dry in the mountain air in special warehouses. The curing process lasts for around two years, and sometimes longer. The hams may lose up to half their weight as the fat sweats out of them (which is why you often see those little cups under the hams hanging up in bars), while the salt prevents bacteria from attacking the meat. Natural antioxidants in the meat also help to break down the fats, giving it its unique texture and rich medley of flavours that increases with the length of the curing process. And there you have it!

Where you can find it

You can find it in almost any bar, and it’s actually a good idea to try a tapa or ración of Jamón Iberico de Bellota at several different establishments as every jamón experience is a little bit different. Not only does the quality vary from place to place, but so does the cutting technique (there are actually competitions) and, of course, you will be getting meat cut from different parts of the leg. The meat should be eaten at room temperature and accompanied by a fino or manzanilla sherry. Que aproveche.

Barcelona | Welcome to veoapartment

casa batllo detailOur new veoapartment Barcelona page is now live!

We are offering a small but high quality selection of holiday apartments, carefully chosen both for their modern comforts and “it feels like you’re at home” qualities, and for their locations close to the most important sights in the city. With veoapartment’s usual attention to detail and the high priority we place on customer service, this means that you can book with confidence for a no-worries holiday.

Why come to Barcelona?

Lots of reasons. It’s the capital of Catalonia and Spain’s second largest city after Madrid, and also its most international and cosmopolitan. Legend has it that it was founded by Hamilcar Barca, the grandfather of Hannibal (of crossing the Alps with elephants fame), but whether this is true or not it certainly has both a long history and a modern European feel.

la boqueriaAnd there’s plenty to see and do. From the unofficial heart of the city, the grand Plaza Catalunya, you can stroll down the bustling length of the famous Las Ramblas and pay a visit to La Boqueria, the main provisions market founded in the 13th century. Go into the Barrio Gothic, the old quarter of the city, which still has many medieval buildings, including the Cathedral, while the Plaça Reial (Royal Plaza), a grand 19th century square, has lots of restaurants and a busy nightlife. Seafront attractions include the famous aquarium with its underwater walkways, and for those with a head for heights there’s the cable car to the top of the brooding bulk of Montjuic mountain.

Going north from Plaza Catalunya you go into the Eixample district, with its broad avenues and open spaces, the home of modernist Barcelona, which is exemplified by the work of Antoni Gaudi. Must-sees here include the unique church of Sagrada Familia, one of the city’s most iconic sights, and the Casa Batlló in the Passeig de Gracia. Don’t be put off by the price or the queues – it’s worth it. Take the opportunity to do a little shopping, too; this is one of Europe’s most famous and stylish shopping streets.

Barcelona has a wide selection of bars and restaurants, and the climate’s great, too. Hot and sunny in summer, but not too hot to be out walking, and still quite mild in winter. Time to treat yourself to a memorable holiday!

Granada | Noche en Blanco (White Night)

noche en blanco granadaNoches en blanco cultural festivals, “White Nights” (the name comes originally from the midsummer festival in St Petersburg) have become something of a feature in Spain over the last couple of years, and this year Granada is holding one for the first time, starting on the evening of Saturday, October 19 and continuing into the early hours of Sunday.

The city’s streets and squares will play host to a busy programme of open air theatre, live music, shows and activities for children, and many shops, small businesses and bars will also be staying open into the small hours. A number of monuments and museums, including the Cathedral and Royal Chapel, the Alhambra Museum and the Arab Baths are also extending opening hours (generally until midnight), and there are also special walks and tours exploring various aspects of the city’s history and culture.

Granada is one of Spain’s most magical cities, especially around the Alhambra Hill, the Albaicin, River Darro and the Realejo, and La Noche en Blanco represents an unusual opportunity to see it from another perspective, and do a bit of extra exploring.

There’s something for everyone, young and old, from poetry to sport and after midnight tapas to haunted houses. To see what’s in store see the full list of all the night’s activities.

For some great apartments in the heart of the city and the thick of the action, have a look at our Loft apartments in Santa Ana Street, or the Carmen Terraces in Almanzora Alta Street.

Seville | A Day Trip to Cádiz

Cadiz Cathedral

Cadiz Cathedral

One of my favourite places for a day trip is the city of Cadiz, which is less than two hours away from Seville by train on Spain’s southwest coast. Founded by the Phoenicians some three thousand years ago, it is probably the oldest city in Europe, and has always been one of the country’s most important seaports. Located at the end of a long, partly artificial promontory, and surrounded by the sea on three sides, it’s also one of the prettiest. And just the right size to walk around in an afternoon.

When you arrive make your way into the old centre through Plaza San Juan de Dios, newly renovated with little fountains, and with the impressive town hall at the far end, and head for Plaza Catedral. Grab an empanada for elevenses at the little shop opposite the baroque façade of the 18th century cathedral, which will set you up for the rest of the morning. From there, go through the Arco-de-la-Rosa into the Barrio del Populi, which is the oldest part of Cadiz, and has quite a different feel to the rest of the city. Although it’s small it’s surprisingly easy to get lost in the maze of narrow streets. Nearby on the seafront is the impressive Roman theatre, only rediscovered under some old warehouses in 1980. From there it’s another short walk to the recently reopened central market, with its impressive displays of fruit and veg, fresh meat, and especially, an enormous variety of fresh fish and seafood. It’s one of my favourite stops in Cadiz.

Urta - a local fish

Urta – a local fish

Time for lunch. Have some starters at Casa Manteca (The House of Lard), making sure to sample that local speciality, “chicharrones especial”, before going to Restaurante El Faro for some topnotch fish and seafood. Try the “arroz negro” (rice with squid-ink) for a special treat.

Back on the sea front turn right and follow the coastal fortifications; Castillo San Sebastian, brooding out in the bay at the end of its causeway, from one angle looking like a great ship, and Santa Catalina on the corner of the headland, looking out over the Atlantic in three directions. Stop for a drink on the seafront terrace of the Parador hotel before visiting Parque Genovése next door, a botanical garden with a wonderful collection of strange trees and an artificial waterfall, and definitely not to be missed.

La Caleta

La Caleta

Time now to be heading home, taking the direct route across the middle of the old city. The pattern of the streets here is quite regular, and it’s not hard to find your way to the two big public squares, Plaza San Antonio and Plaza Mina, monuments to 19th century civic pride.  I love both these places to stop and stare for a while, but they are quite different in character, San Antonio wide and light and airy, surrounded by mansions and San Antonio church, while Plaza Mina is like a garden, filled with trees and exotic plants. It’s also the home of the Archaeological Museum. Other things to see include the Torre Tavira, the last of the old watchtowers from which the merchants would look out to see for the safe return of their ships, and the Oratorio de la Cueva, a 17th century chapel underground chapel.

View of Cadiz from La Caleta

View of Cadiz from La Caleta

How to get there: The best way to get there is by train. You can book online, at the Renfe booking office in Calle Zaragoza, or at Santa Justa station. Trains run approximately every one and a half hours, and the journey time is a little under two hours. A return ticket (ida y vuelta) costs around 25 euros.

Seville | Free Parking Guide

Seville Street Parking Map - click on image to enlarge

Seville Street Parking Map – click on image to enlarge

A frequent question of apartment guests who are travelling by car, whether their own or a rental, is about the possibility of free on-street parking in Seville.  Having to pay for a nice apartment and good food every day during your holidays, it is natural that they want to economise on the “accommodation” of the car…

In a previous post, we discussed the different options for affordable garage parking. This post is part 2 on the parking theme: How and where to park for free on the street.

On the map here we have marked streets inside the historic centre and around where you may be able to find a parking space.

1. Safety – Is it safe to leave my rental car on the street?

In our opinion, the answer is “yes”, though with some reservations. Although theft of and from cars has dramatically decreased over the last 15 years, and is not a big risk in the centre of Seville and its immediate surroundings, it is of course, still important not to leave bags or valuables in your car, and as far as possible not to leave any visible “signs” that it belongs to a foreign tourist (though admittedly this is tricky if you come in your own car with foreign license plates).

In many areas, there are people who hang around empty parking spaces, intent on “helping” you park your car or indicating a free space for a fee. In Spain, they are called “aparca-coches” (car-parkers) or more frequently “gorilas”. As you may deduce from the latter expression, Spaniards do not place much value on this service. In fact in Seville, the local police are trying to eradicate the practice, though without much success so far. There are still many of these people on the streets, but at least their attitude when asking for money has become less aggressive. In terms of the car, there is little or no risk, even if you don’t pay. Legal car-parkers, who have a badge and will issue you with a ticket, are few and far between, and you’re pretty unlikely to see one!

Another issue, related to security, is the possibility of the car being scratched or damaged by inconsiderate or inept drivers while parked on the street. This IS a risk which you have to consider, especially bearing in mind the standard policies of car rental companies regarding damage to their cars. In southern Spain, car drivers are often careless when parking in front of, or behind, your car. Bumping the other car (parking “by touch”), and even pushing to increase the parking space, is common practice. Double parking is also a frequent problem, though generally the car is left with the hand-brake off in case you need to push it out of the way if you have been blocked in. On narrow streets within the centre, be aware of the width available  for passing traffic, as wider vehicles might scratch the side of your car when.

2. Neighbourhoods – Where can I find a space?

As previously mentioned, it is extremely difficult to find a free space in the centre, but it’s not impossible.

Macarena neighbourhood: around calle Feria, inside the historic centre, and outside, north of calle Resolana, towards the Macarena hospital.

San Vicente neighbourhood: mainly on calle Torneo (which goes alongside the river), and some of the smaller side streets towards the Alameda de Hercules.

Santa Cruz neighbourhood: virtually impossible, so not recommended. Try east of calle Recaredo (outside the historic centre).

Triana neighbourhood: Calle Pages del Corro and towards the west.

3. Time – When are your chances best?

The best time to find parking space on the street is early morning (08:00-08:30), lunch time (14:00-16:00 hours) and after 8.00pm, when people leave the city centre. Generally, your chances are much better at the week-end. You might consider paid public garage parking on arrival, and then look for a street parking space later once you’ve unloaded your luggage, or on the following day.

4. Restricted areas – Where is it forbidden to park?

There are no general parking restrictions in the centre of Seville, which means you can park anywhere where it is not explicitly forbidden by traffic signs, or if you’re in a “zona azul” (blue zone), identified by traffic signs and blue lines on the road, which are paid meter parking only on weekdays and Saturdays (check times on the signs). We recommend being observant. Sometimes, you will see cars in a line or double parked in restricted areas. However, these will be locals who know the rules. Do not park there! Here’s an example: next to the food market on calle Feria there is an unloading bay. In the afternoons, the market is closed and the bay unoccupied, but a truck comes to hose down the market stalls, and your car will get towed away immediately if the space is needed for the truck.

If the police tow your car away, they will leave a sticker on the ground where the car was parked. It will be taken to the pound on Avenida Blas Infante, next to Parque de los Principes in the los Remedios neighbourhood, where it can be collected once you’ve paid the fine (around the 200€ mark).

Hopefully this has not been too discouraging 😉 and as a counter-balance, a final word on Spanish police: we have found them to be more lenient than central Europe police forces. This is due to the fact that Spanish administration, in general, is less likely to act on its own initiative. They are more likely to react when there is a specific complaint from somebody, as in the market example above.