Seville | 5 Ways to live (almost) like a local.

You have seen them all over the Sunday supplements and the internet, particularly the blogosphere – 10 best this, 5 worst that, 10 things to do in X, and also 5 ways to live like a local in Y. Now for sure, some of these articles will give you some sound advice on getting the most out of your vacation, but there’s also a lot of stereotyping as well as inaccuracies involved. If you’re only here (in our case, Seville) for a few days you’re not really going to be living like a local. For a start you probably don’t speak much, or any, Spanish, an essential requirement for immersing yourself in the life of the city. Nor do the locals spend much time hanging out in the Cathedral or Alcázar palace, things you should certainly be doing while you’re here (there is an up side to being a tourist). But don’t worry. There are things you can do which will give you at least a taste of how the locals live. So here’s our list (written by a local!).

local tapas

Go on a tapeo

Going out for tapas is the locals preferred way of spending a sociable evening out, and it’s probably already on your list. The format is something like a pub crawl, but with food as the main item on the agenda, with drinks as the accompaniment, rather than vice versa. Have a couple or three tapas at each place you go to, then move on to the next. There’s no foolproof way of choosing the right places for a perfect tapas experience, and although there are some great places in the touristy Santa Cruz, such as Las Teresas and Casa Roman, getting away into the Arenal or the Macarena you’ll find bars like Casa Morales, Bodeguita Romero and Eslava that are always full of locals and have top quality food, too. As an introduction, and to learn the ropes, try a tapas tour with a local guide on your first night.

Visit a Local Market

Visiting a local market is an interesting and fun way to see how the locals shop, and if you’re renting a self-catering apartment (recommended, though we may be a bit biased) rather than staying in a hotel, it’s practical too. There are three markets in the centre, and another just across the bridge in Triana, and the displays of fresh fruit and veg, fish, seafood and meats should inspire you to do a little cooking. One important thing to remember is DO NOT TOUCH any of the fruit or vegetables. Just point at what you want and hold up your fingers to show the amount if you have no Spanish. And since there is no queuing, and very few market stalls are equipped with “take a number” machines, the correct thing to do is ask “quien es el último?” (who is last?) and then take your turn when they have finished.

local market

Siesta

There’s a reason that siesta is one of the few Spanish words to have been warmly welcomed into the English language. That half-hour nap after lunch aids digestion, calms the brain, and reinvigorates the body. It’s the original “power nap”. And if you’re here in summer (June through to mid-September), it’s really too hot to do anything else. So for a couple of hours everything shuts down, many of the smaller shops close, and peace and quiet descend on what is otherwise a bustling and buzzy city.

Fiesta

Contrary to popular stereotype life here isn’t just one long street party. Nevertheless, when the Sevillanos do them, they do them right. So if you’re here for Semana Santa, the April Fair, or one of the neighbourhood events like the Vela de Santa Ana in Triana, go along and mix with the locals. Another local tradition, churros and chocolate, is the ideal hangover cure after a night on the tiles.

Flamenco

There are two schools of thought on flamenco. One is that you should seek out some after midnight drinking club with an improptu flamenco “jamming session”. You might get lucky, and have the experience of a lifetime. Or you might get a couple of amateurs and be cold-shouldered by the actual locals to boot. Or you can go and see a proper flamenco show, at a venue like the Flamenco Dance Museum or the Casa de la Memoria. The audience will be mainly tourists like you, but the performers will be professional artists, and the quality and authenticity are guaranteed. On this one, even after the many years I’ve lived in Seville, I’m happy to be “just a tourist”.

local flamenco

Seville | Giraldas Around the World

cathedral terraceview of the Giralda Tower from our Cathedral Terrace apartment

The Giralda Tower beside Seville Cathedral is beyond doubt the city’s best known icon, and the visitor’s first sight of it, usually from the Plaza de la Virgen de los Reyes, leaves a lasting impression. It was originally built as the minaret of the Grand Mosque in the last two decades of the 12th century by the Almohads, the Moorish dynasty who ruled over southern Spain and Morocco, and who also built the very similar minarets in Rabat and Marrakesh. The belfry and weathervane were added later by the Christians, in a renaissance style that harmonises remarkably well with the Moorish arched windows and abstract patterns of the exterior of the main section of the tower. The overall classic simplicity of effect has inspired numerous architects and builders around the world to copy it, and the fruits of their labours can be seen in some unexpected places.

Kansas City GiraldaKansas City
Perhaps the most famous of these Giraldas is the one in Kansas City. It was built in the 1920s by Kansas City developer JC Nichols, who was so impressed by the original that he added a half scale replica to his new shopping centre, the Country Club Plaza. In 1967 Seville and Kansas City became twinned, and in the Avenida Kansas City in Seville you can find a statue of a Cherokee Indian that is a copy of an original in Kansas City.

miami giraldaMiami and Chicago
Miami has not just one, but two, buildings inspired by the Giralda, both dating to the 1920s. The Biltmore Hotel, after being used as a hospital during the war years, then a medical school followed by a period when it was abandoned, is now once more a luxury hotel. In the 1930s Johnny Weismuller (Tarzan) worked there as a swimming instructor.

The Freedom Tower was built for the Miami News newspaper, and is now a contemporary arts museum. It has a twin in Chicago, the Wrigley Tower, built by the same architects as the headquarters of the chewing gum company.

madison square giraldaNew York
The New York Giralda stood alongside the Second Madison Square Garden from 1890 until 1925, when it was demolished to make way for an office building. It was designed by Stanford White and topped by a statue of the goddess Diana, rather than the representation of Faith on the original.

Other towers in the USA inspired by the Giralda are the Minneapolis Railroad Depot (destroyed in a storm in 1941), the San Francisco Ferry building and the Terminal Tower in Cleveland.

Spain
carmona san pedro church towerAs you might expect there are a number of similar looking, but less grand, church towers in southern Spain that actually date from the same period and like the Giralda, are converted minarets. But there are several more Giraldas in Spain that are deliberate later copies. In Carmona, not far from Seville, is the 18th century tower of the church of San Pedro. Also 18th century is the church tower of Santa Maria in Ecija. More recent versions can be found in Tarragona and in the central square in Badajoz, both from the early 20th century.

For a holiday home with an unrivalled view of the original, try our Giralda Terrace apartments, or our top of the range Cathedral Terrace. You won’t be disappointed.

Seville | Five Centenarian Bars

Among its many other claims to fame, Seville is known as the birthplace of tapas, those tasty snack sized dishes that accompany your drink in the city’s many bars. Although its origins are disputed, there’s no doubt that it took on something close to its modern form in the 19th century. Not surprising, then, that there are a number of bars still going strong that were founded in that era, and that still maintain a traditional look and atmosphere. Here’s our selection of Seville bars that have passed their 100th birthdays (and in one case a whole lot more).

bar auroraBodega La Aurora

Bodega La Aurora (Calle Pérez Galdós, 9)

The youngest of our 5 bars, only just making it to the 100-year mark, is La Aurora, near the Plaza Alfalfa, and the brothers Sánchez Ruíz are the fifth generation of the founding family to run it. Although recently refurbished it still maintains the original wood bar and sherry casks, as well as Cruzcampo beer and a traditional tapas menu that includes an ensaladilla that’s reputed to be among the best in town, pringá and chorizo al infierno.

Casa Cuesta (Calle de Castilla, 1)

Across the river in Triana, just behind the market, Casa Cuesta first opened its doors back in 1880, and has been a local fixture ever since. The décor, as is so often the case with the older bars, is very much semana santa, bullfights and spring fair, and the food is ultra typical too. Fried fish, croquettes, stews and, their house speciality, urta (fish) a la Roteña (cooked with tomato and peppers).

casa moralesclay wine urns at Casa Morales

Casa Morales (Calle Garcia de Vinuesa, 11)

Founded way back in 1850, Casa Morales just oozes that antique charm, especially if you go in the back bar where the big sherry urns are. They’re no longer in use, but are an essential part of the atmosphere, along with the flagstone floors and dusty bottles. Specialities are sherry and a wide variety of cured meat, cheese and fish dishes, which can be had as tapas (on a plate) or served in small buns. It’s one of the best places I know to get started on a tapeo (going to various bars for a drink and a bite to eat, the civilised Spanish version of a pub crawl), and shouldn’t be missed. You can find it just off the main avenue opposite the cathedral.

Bar Las Teresas (Calle Las Teresas, 2)

In the heart of the old Jewish quarter, the Barrio Santa Cruz, Las Teresas was founded in 1870, and the current owners are now on their third generation. It’s one of Seville’s most popular bars, drawing in locals and tourists alike, and it’s not hard to see why. As well as the typical posters and tilework, it has a nice outside terrace and probably the best array of hams hanging from the ceiling of any bar in town; good service and food, too. If it’s free, grab the corner window seat inside, order up a glass or two of sherry and a plate of jamón (or whatever else you fancy), and watch the world go by for a while.

veoEl Rinconcillo

El Rinconcillo (Calle Gerona, 40)

Our last bar, El Rinconcillo lays claim to being the oldest bar in Seville. It was founded in 1670, when Seville was still the only city conducting the trade with the Americas, and Charles II was just making the acquaintance of Nell Gwyn. It still has loads of atmosphere, with tapas eaten standing at the bar (where there still write your account in chalk as you go along), or at upturned sherry casks. It’s another “first tapeo stop” kind of a place, but you have to go, just so you can say you’ve been. El Rinconcillo also lays claim to having the best stewed spinach with garbanzos in town, but we don’t agree.

la cuenta

Jerez – Xèréz – Sherry (and Horses)

This week we’re going to take a look at what’s going on in and around Jerez, which can be easily reached from Seville by train or by car, and makes a great destination for a day out. As we all know, Jerez de la Frontera (to give it its full name) is the centre of the Sherry region, and is also world-famous for its horses. Not surprisingly, both of these figure prominently in the Jerez Spring Fair, La Feria del Caballo, which this year is between May 11 and May 18, immediately following the Seville Fair.

feriaFeria del Caballo in Jerez de la Frontera

The Jerez fair is probably the oldest of Andalucia’s horse fairs, with roots going back to the 13th century, and it’s also my favourite. For a start it’s held in a pretty public park, Parque González Hontoria, rather than a glorified parking lot like many other fairs. There’s more space, the great majority of the casetas, including those of the big sherry houses, are open to the public, and the whole thing has a more relaxed, almost genteel, feel to it. The horse and carriage parades are fabulous, even for non-horsy people like me, and for the aficionado there is a commercial horse show and market, Equisur, alongside the main fair. And if you do want a bit more noise and excitement there’s always the nearby Calle del Infierno (Hell Street) with all the familiar fairground attractions.

After Jerez, it’s the turn of the second of the sherry towns, El Puerto de Santa María, where the Feria de Primavera and Vino Fino runs from May 21 to May 26. As well as the fair, try and fit in a visit to one of the old bodegas, which are fascinating places.

sanlucar bartapas bar with sherry casks in Sanlucar de Barrameda

It’s immediately followed by the last of the sherry towns, Sanlucar de Barrameda, whose Feria de Manzanilla kicks off at midnight on May 27 and lasts until June 1. Apart from the usual “fun-of-the-fair”, including horses, bullfights and manzanilla sherry, Sanlucar is also a seaside town with a nice beach, a traditional central square with lots of restaurants, and a small but historically important old town, the Barrio Alto.

To while away the time in between you might like to pay a visit to the Vinoble International Exhibition of Noble Wines,  a biennial event in Jerez for fortified, dessert and sweet wines, this year running from May 25-27. This coincides with Jerez being named the European Wine City for 2014 and is the premier international event of its kind, and apart from local producers also attracts exhibitors from around the world. Have fun and find out about some unusual and excellent wines at the same time. To make it a real win-win, the venue is the  Alcazar de Jerez, a stunning combination of Moorish fortress, mosque, palace and gardens.

vinoble 2014

Last, but not least, if all this has whetted your appetite for all things sherry, June 2 to 8 is International Sherry Week, with sherry events both locally and in 20 countries around the world. There are over a hundred events in Spain alone so have a look at the website for those taking place in and around Seville.

Seville | April Fair 101

feria 2014 gateFeria de Abril Portada 2014

The people of Seville have a reputation for knowing how to party, and next week is Seville’s biggest party of the year, the April Fair (this year it’s actually in May, following a late Easter). If you’re looking for the Spain of myth, legend and picture postcard, with señoritas in polka-dot dresses and smartly dressed men on horseback, this is a good place to start. But for a first-timer it can all be a bit confusing and overwhelming, so you’ll be needing a few tips on what it’s all about and how to blend in with the locals.

The first fair was held in 1847, and was intended as a livestock show and market, but even from the early years it increasingly became an important social event, and by the time it moved to its present site in 1973, it had become the week-long party we know today. That present site is on a large strip of land (reclaimed from the original course of the river) on the southern edge of Los Remedios, across the river from Maria Luisa Park. It’s entered through the portada, a specially constructed gateway with a different theme every year. This year’s was inspired by the “water kiosks” built in the late 19th century to provide drinking water, and the 50th anniversary of the canonical coronation of the Virgin of Hope of Macarena the following year.

feria horses

The fair opens officially at midnight on Monday (May 5) with the alumbrada, the switching on of the lights, and ends the following Sunday night with an impressive fireworks display. The streets of the fairground are all named after famous bullfighters and are lined by the casetas, the small decorated marquees that are the focus of the socialising. Most of these are privately owned, either by wealthy individuals and companies, or by professional associations, clubs or groups of friends, and you’ll need an invite to be allowed in. But don’t panic! There are a number of public casetas run by the city council and neighbourhoods, so you’ll still have places to go for refreshment and to watch the dancing and singing.

It’s often said that there are really two fairs. The daytime fair is the one with the processions of horses and carriages, mostly owned, ridden or driven by the Sevillian social elite (it is, after all, an activity that doesn’t come cheap). They are there to see and be seen, so it’s quite an impressive display, with everyone and everything immaculately presented. The rest of us may not be in that league, but you’ll still want to look good. Flouncy flamenco dresses will cost you anywhere from 200€ up so you may not want to invest in one for just a short visit. However, a colourful shawl and espadrilles, along with a few bright accessories – flowers for your hair and big plastic hoop earrings – will probably do it for the ladies. Check out Flamenco & Más for some inspiration. Men should probably avoid the traditional traje corte, the short jacket and tight trousers, unless they’re really in good shape (and own a horse). Casual smart is the best way to go if you don’t want to look too much like a tourist.

feria dresses

The night fair is for eating tapas and drinking rebujitos (dry manzanilla sherry mixed with 7Up), dancing Sevillanas, and visiting the Calle de Infierno (Hell Street!) for the fairground attractions. By daybreak you should be ready for the traditional breakfast of churros and chocolate, or just head home for bed, depending on your stamina.

This is also the main bullfighting season, so if you want to see a fight go to the Real Maestranza. Best to book your tickets in advance.