Seville | Day Trip to Córdoba

Roman Bridge on Guadalquivir River

Córdoba is a must see city that can be easily reached from Seville by train, bus or car. It is situated at the highest navigable point of the Rio Guadalquivir, and alongside the main route across the mountains to central Spain. Córdoba first became important under the Romans, whose bridge still remains in use today, and reached its peak between the 8th and 10th centuries under the Moors when it was the capital of most of Spain.

It was in this period that Córdoba’s most famous landmark, the Mezquita, or Great Mosque was constructed. Standing on a low rise above the northern end of the Roman bridge it dominates the skyline and is still the city’s focal point. After the Christian conquest it was converted into a cathedral, and a central altarpiece was added. Fortunately, the new rulers chose to preserve the main body of the building, whose double archways on pillars of jasper, onyx, marble and granite, create a stunning visual perspective, and the outer patio with its orange trees.

The Mezquita of Córdoba

To the west of the Mezquita is the 14th century Alcázar palace and gardens, and a substantial section of the medieval city walls enclosing the old Jewish quarter, a picturesque area of small, winding streets around the Mezquita, where you can also find the 14th century synagogue. Other places of interest include the 16th century Puerta del Puente at the city end of the Roman bridge, the Calahorra Tower across the river, and the early medieval water mill, the Molino de Albolafia.

Córdoba is also famous for its flower filled patios, and if you are there in May for the spring festival, these are open to the public. If you miss the festival the newly refurbished “patio museum” Palacio de Viana is a great alternative.

Also in May you can see the Feria de Córdoba which is like a true country fair with large (air conditioned!) marquees set up offering a variety of music and different atmospheres, with plenty of good food and drink. The parade of horses and carriages in the afternoon is one of the highlights.

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Seville | Update: Bienal de Flamenco 2012

Today the Bienal de Flamenco announced its official 2012 programme and final dates, so this is to update our February post when we first told you about the Seville’s internationally renowned flamenco festival.

This year the Bienal will take place 3 – 30 September.

Tickets go on sale online starting June 1st.

Keep in mind that accommodation becomes both scarce and expensive during the Bienal so if you are planning on coming its best to book as soon as possible.

If you are interested in renting one of our fabulous holiday apartments in September just get in touch and let us know how we can help.

Bienal de Flamenco 2012
3rd – 30th September

Bienal 2012 Programme

Seville | To Market, To Market…

One of the many advantages of renting a holiday apartment is having your own kitchen. Even if you aren’t planning on cooking any full-course meals (after all, you are on holiday!) it’s great being able to prepare snacks, keep drinks cold, and not have to eat every meal out. Which is not only more economical but adds to that special “home away from home” feeling.

In Seville there are several municipal markets, open Monday to Saturday from 9 am to 2 pm, which typically have a small bar or two inside where you can buy tapas made with fresh ingredients from the stalls. You can sometimes get good deals on fish and seafood near closing time on Saturdays as most fish stalls are closed on Monday, but you also run the risk of there not being much selection left. Some stalls now have “take a number” machines, but for the most part you just need to ask “quien es el último?” (who’s last?) and take your turn after whoever holds up their hand. It’s not only great fun visiting the local markets but you also get a special insight into the culture of where you are staying. Below you can read about four of Seville’s best markets…

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Seville | El Rocío

If you’re visiting Seville in late May, you may be surprised by the sight of little ox-drawn wagons, looking like some strange combination of something out of the wild-west and a traditional gypsy caravan. This is the annual pilgrimage (Romería) to the shrine of the Virgin of El Rocío in the village of the same name, and, visually at least, it is perhaps the most unusual event in the local religious calendar.

It takes place over the Pentecost (Whitsun) weekend (this year May 26-28), but although the pilgrimage proper only starts at noon on the Saturday, when the cofradades (brotherhoods) begin the last leg of the journey into the town, the real pilgrims (rocieros) travel to the shrine “cross-country”, either in these little wagons, on horseback, or in trailers pulled by tractors, following one of the traditional pilgrims’ routes from Seville, Huelva or San Lucar, in the days leading up to Whitsun.

On Wednesday and Thursday mornings the Seville rocieros leave in groups from Triana, Macarena and Salvador, and pass through the city centre to the cathedral to be blessed. The men are mainly dressed in the instantly recognisable Andalucian horse-riders short jacket and tight trousers, and the women in a looser version of the flamenco dress, but it’s those little wagons that are the stars of the show.

It’s also possible to get to El Rocio by more conventional means, by car or bus, although the traffic is often horrendous. However you get there, nothing quite prepares you for how packed the town is during the pilgrimage, especially after the statue of the Virgin leaves the sanctuary of the church at around midnight on Sunday to visit the chapels of the various brotherhoods during the course of Monday morning.

By comparison, a visit to El Rocio at other times is a bit like visiting a ghost town, as most of the main buildings belong to the brotherhoods and are used only during the pilgrimage, but there is still a stunning view of the huge church that is the Virgin’s sanctuary, and there is loads of birdlife, including herons, flamingoes and storks in the nearby marshlands on the edge of Doñana Park.

[photos courtesy of ©azahar-sevilla and ©guspemar]

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