Granada | A Walk Along the River Darro

darro (1)If you’re visiting Granada you will certainly spend a lot of your time exploring the Alhambra and the Albaicin, but one of my favourite walks is up the narrow valley between the two, alongside the little River Darro, which is like a little world of its own.

Start from the Plaza Nueva, the “New Square” built in the decades after the fall of the Moorish city to the Christian conquerors in 1492. The river runs in a culvert beneath the square, which as well as the imposing Royal Chancellery is home to lots of tapas bars and cafes, where both locals and tourists can enjoy a coffee or a cold beer in the fresh air.

At the far end of the square is the church of Santa Ana, with the battlements of the Alhambra on the hill looming behind it. Beyond Santa Ana the river is in the open air, and despite the setting in the heart of the city tumbles between its rocky banks as playfully as the mountain stream it originally was. A pair of late mediaeval bridges lead into a small residential district perched on the side of the Alhambra hill, with some of the houses built on outcrops directly above the river. See if you can spot the remains of the Puente del Cadi, the original Moorish bridge demolished in the 17th century.

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Take time to stop off at the magnificent Arab baths, which are among the oldest and most complete in Spain, and enjoy the cool quiet of its courtyards. A bit further up is the Archaeological Museum.

darro (3)At the top of the street you come out into an open space called the Paseo de los Tristes (the Promenade of the Sad) because beyond it is the old cemetery. Nowadays, it’s a place to stop for refreshment at one of the bars and enjoy the view of the Alhambra across the river. The rather forlorn looking building on the opposite bank was once a hotel, but because of continual problems with damp it was never popular, and was abandoned.

At the end of the Paseo you have the option of turning left into the Albaicin, or crossing the Aljibillo bridge and taking the Cuesta del Rey Chico (Way of the Little King), which leads around the Alhambra Hill between the main fortress and the Generalife Palace. There’s normally not too many people along here and the climb along the old cobbled path gives you a sense of place and time that more travelled ways often miss.

To be perfectly placed for the start of the walk rent one of our apartments in the Plaza Nueva.

Seville | Nocturama SouthPop Festival 2013

 
Nocturama 2013It’s the season for evening concerts in Seville. As well as the “Nights in the Alcázar Gardens” cycle, featuring more traditional and classical styles, the coming month sees this year’s edition of the SouthPop festival (Nocturama 2013) at the Andalucia Contemporary Arts Centre in the Cartuja monastery.

The concerts have been held here every year since their inauguration in 2006, and have showcased both new and established talents from the world of Spanish pop and international guest artistes.

Concerts are every Thursday and Friday evening (doors open at 9.00pm) from June 27 to July 26, with an additional concert on Saturday July 13, and a final concert on Wednesday July 31, featuring the farewell performance of The Baltic Sea, so come along and grab yourself some of that rock’n’roll atmosphere.

Tickets can be reserved by email or phone, or purchased at the ticket office on the night of the concert.

If you’re looking for somewhere to stay we have apartments for budget conscious pop fans, apartments for hippies, and even apartments for aspiring rock stars.

 

Seville | The Head of King Peter

cabeza rey don pedroOn a corner of a quiet residential street just off the Plaza Alfalfa, in a niche at the level of the first floor balconies, you can see a statue of the upper body and crowned head of one of Spain’s mediaeval kings. The name of the street, Calle La Cabeza del Rey Don Pedro, serves to identify him as King Peter of Castile and Leon, known as “The Cruel” or “The Just”, who ruled in Seville from 1350 to 1369, and is probably best known for his palace in the Alcázar.

The story of how and why his head came to be there is part history and part urban legend (or at least there is more than one version of the history). It is said that one night the king was walking the streets of Seville, alone and incognito, either in pursuit of an “affair of the heart”, or to test the claim of the mayor, Domingo Cerón, that no crime committed in the city’s streets went unpunished. In the course of his journey he became involved in an altercation with a stranger, swords were drawn, and Peter killed him.

During the course of the fight an old woman, aroused by the noise, came to her window, and by the light of a candle, saw the men fighting and the striking of the fatal blow. As Peter fled the scene she dropped the candle in fright into the street below.

The next morning word came to the king’s ears that a nobleman of the house of Guzman, who supported the claim to the throne of Peter’s bastard half-brother Henry, had been assassinated, and that a witness to the crime, the old woman, had been found.

When the king questioned her, he realised from her description that he himself was the assassin. Having already promised that the killer would be found and his head hung upon the wall, the king was in a quandary. Nevertheless, shortly afterwards, the king presented a box, which he said contained the head of the murderer, to be hung on the wall where the killing had occurred.

When Peter died the box was opened, and was found to contain a plaster bust of his head. The street was renamed “Cabeza del Rey Don Pedro” as a reminder of his duplicity, and the adjoining street became “Candilejo” (candle) for the light that had revealed him to the old woman.

Apartments close to the scene of the crime include Ibarra Terrace and Corral del Rey Terrace.

Seville | Alcázar Gardens Night Concerts 2013

noches alcazar 2013Every summer, starting this year on June 19 and continuing every night until September 1, the gardens of the Alcázar Palace play host to a series of concerts with an eclectic selection of music that includes everything from the classical and traditional to folk, flamenco and even jazz and blues. These beautiful gardens create a stunning backdrop for the entertainment, and in the cool of the evening it’s a perfect place to sit and relax, with nothing to do except enjoy the music and the surroundings.

Tickets are available from the palace ticket office in the Patio de Banderas for €5, or online for €6 (this year for the first time you can print out the tickets at home). You can buy up to 7 tickets per concert (note: children under 8 are not admitted).

Concerts start at 10.30 pm (last entrance 10.25), but you can go into the gardens from 9.00 pm and enjoy a cold beer and a stroll around the gardens – definitely worth seeing as the day fades to dusk.

Programme of Concerts 2013

Tickets

 

Seville | World Heritage Centre

At the south end of the old centre of Seville is an outstanding group of three buildings that were registered as a World Heritage Site by Unesco in 1987, comprising the Cathedral and Giralda Tower, the Alcázar Royal Palace complex and the General Archive of the Indies.

archivo india, cathedral, alcazar

Cathedral and Giralda Tower

The Cathedral stands on the site of the former Grand Mosque built by the Almohad kings between 1184 and 1198. The Mosque was converted to a cathedral when the city was reconquered by the Christian king of Castile in 1248, but after it was badly damaged in an earthquake in 1356, the decision was taken to demolish it, and build a completely new Cathedral in its place. At the meeting of the church council in 1401 where the decision was made one of the members is said to have proposed “Let us build a church so beautiful and so great that those who see it built will think we were mad”. The work lasted for over 150 years, including substantial rebuilding after the collapse of the lantern in 1511, the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) only being finished in 1575. The result is the world’s largest Gothic cathedral, and the third largest church in the world after Saint Paul’s and Saint Peter’s. Inside there are more than 80 chapels, and a massive gold altarpiece, as well as the tomb of Christopher Columbus. Curiosities include a stuffed crocodile outside the Puerto de Lagarto.

The Giralda Tower, now the bell tower of the Cathedral, was originally the minaret of the Mosque, the bells and upper portions, including the statue that gives the tower its name, being added in 1568. You can climb the tower up the internal ramp, and the view from the top over the roofs of the city is one of the highlights of any visit to Seville, and endlessly fascinating.

Admission is €8.75, €2 for students and pensioners. Free to disabled, under-16s, and those born or resident in Seville.

The Real Alcázar

The first fortress and palace was built as long ago as the 10th century, but little remains from this period. The outer walls that we see today are from the 11th century, but the main palace dates from the time of Peter the Cruel in the 14th century, with later additions. The palace is still an official residence of the King of Spain, making it the oldest palace in continuous use in Europe.

Much of the palace was built in the style known as Mudejar, the mix of Islamic and Christian styles that defined the period.

Highlights include the Courtyard of the Maidens (legend has it that the Moorish kings extracted an annual tribute of 100 young girls from their Christian subjects), with its reflecting pool and sunken gardens, the Baths of Lady María of Padilla, which are actually rainwater tanks beneath the palace, and the Pool of Mercury in the Palace gardens.

Admission is €8, or €3 for students and pensioners.

General Archive of the Indies

The building that now houses the General Archive of the Indies was built between 1584 and 1598 as the commodities exchange for the merchants engaged in the trade with the New World. Before that time the merchants had been in the habit of transacting their business on the steps of the Cathedral, or even inside when it was either too hot or raining, causing considerable friction with the church authorities (the contemporary depiction of the expulsion of the moneylenders from the temple above one of the doors of the cathedral may have been inspired by this).

Later, after the monopoly of the Americas trade passed to Cádiz, the building fell into disuse, until Charles III decreed in 1785 that it should be used to house all the documentation relating to the Spanish American Empire. The archive is still one of the most important in the world for historical research, although many of the documents are now in a building across the street.

Admission is free and there are often interesting special exhibitions.

We have four luxury apartments with stunning views of this very special place, the Catedral Terrace and the three Giralda Terrace apartments.