Malaga | Soho Street Art

soho muralsphoto courtesy of East of Malaga

Something’s happening out in the street, and in the SOHO district of Málaga, it’s street art. From doorway size paintings to seven-storey high murals, post-graffiti artworks are appearing on walls all over the SOHO district of Málaga.

But why there, and why now? Soho is the triangular shaped neighbourhood sandwiched between the Alameda, the port and the river like a wedge of cheese. In the nineteenth century it was a prosperous middle class suburb (and still has some very fine buildings from this time), but over the last fifty years has become increasingly run down, missing out on the kind of urban renewal that first the new city centre, and later the historic centre, benefited from.

graffiti ratsphoto courtesy of azahar-sevilla.com

Partly because the new Contemporary Arts Centre was located there in 2003, the initiative to regenerate the area that was launched six years later revolved around making it the artistic centre of the city, and was backed by both the city council and private funds. Some of the artworks that have been created by both local and “guest” artists as a result are certainly impressive and colourful. Among the best known contributors are the UK’s Dean Stockton (D*FACE) and America’s Frank Shepard Fairey (OBEY), who created the two big seven-storey high murals behind the CAC, and Belgium’s ROA, whose chameleon and tumbling rats seem to be among everybody’s favourites, as well as Dal East from China. Local artists include emerging talents Jose Luis Puche and Dadi Dreucol. The brightly coloured graffiti-style art has certainly made the area more interesting – and attracted tourists and their money. It will be interesting to see how successful the strategy is in the long term, and whether it revitalises the local community.

graffitiphotos courtesy of azahar-sevilla.com

Seville | Markets & Mushrooms – Metropol Parasol

Overpriced, overdue and out of place – Seville’s Metropol Parasol (popularly known as “las Setas”, or the mushrooms) has been no stranger to controversy, but since it’s completion in early 2011, it’s curving, swooping ultra-modern shape has become an important tourist attraction in the heart of the old city, and helped to revitalise an area that had become rather run down.

mushrooms 2

The Parasols can be found in the Plaza de la Encarnación, straddling the main east-west streets Calle Laraña and Calle Imagen. The square is named for the late mediaeval monastery that stood here until the early 19th century, when it was demolished to make way for a new central provisions market (whose successor is on the ground floor). In the 1970s the area was the target of “urban renewal” and the market building (by then in a poor state of repair) was pulled down, and the stall holders moved to “temporary” accommodation on a vacant lot beside the square. Although it had always been the intention to restore the market to its original location, the site was effectively abandoned until 1990, when work began on a proposed underground car park. But after substantial Roman ruins were discovered on the site, work stopped, plans were shelved, and the archaeologists moved in. Finally, in 2004 the local council held a competition for a design for a new market building in the square, which was won by the German architect Jürgen Mayer-Hermann‘s futuristic parasols. Despite technical and financial problems the project was finally completed in April 2011.

mushrooms 3But it was all worth it in the end. The first time you see them is definitely one of those “Wow!” moments. Said to be the largest wooden structure in the world, it swoops and arches above you like, well, a giant mushroom. But it’s functional, too. At ground level, as promised, is the Encarnación market, back in its rightful home after a break of 37 years, with shops and bars alongside. The roof of the market provides an open space for public events, especially the Christmas fair, world cup finals on the big screen, and occasional concerts. Below ground-level is the Antiquarium, the museum that houses the Roman ruins, which have been carefully restored and are a must-see for anyone with an interest in history. From there you can also take the lift up to the top. The walkways give you a great view of the surroundings, and you can enjoy a drink and a tapa at the Gastrosol bar complex.

The neighbouring streets have been rejunevated too, especially the two areas of small boutiques, Soho Benita and Regina, with their emphasis on local designers and artworks, and the open part of the square with trees and benches is a pleasnt place to sit in the shade of a summers day. This is a part of Seville that’s fairly new to tourism, but as the mushrooms have drawn people here, it has become a busy vibrant space, and one of the city’s treasures.

mushrooms 1

The walkways and bar are open from 10:30am to midnight, entrance €3.00 (though you get a discount on your first drink), and the Antiquarium from 10.00am to 8.00pm Tuesday to Saturday and 10.00am to 2.00pm Sundays, entrance €2.

Veoapartment has five holiday apartments in Laraña with views of the Parasols.

Seville | Andalucia Tapa by Tapa

JORNADA ANDALUCIA_v1

At veoapartment we like our fiestas as much as anyone and, as February 28 is Andalucia Day (marking the date of the referendum that gave Andalucia its Autonomous Region status), we thought we’d take the opportunity to treat ourselves to something special. As you all probably know, Andalucia is the southern region of Spain, famous for its sunshine, beaches, palm trees, flamenco and bullfighting. It is also the birthplace of the tapa, so what better way to celebrate than with an Andalucian tapas lunch?

Luckily one of our favourite tapas bars, La Pepona, had a similar idea and is holding one of its regular gastronomic events this week. This one is in honour of Andalucia Day, featuring a traditional tapa from each of Andalucia’s eight provinces, a “tour de food” of the region without leaving Seville. And with the help of two serious professional eaters – @SVQconcierge and @SevillaTapas – we managed to visit every province. So if you’re in town this week we highly recommend stopping by La Pepona and trying some or all of these very special dishes priced at just 2.50€ each. Veo approved!

As well as great food La Pepona has an exceptional wine list and lots of options by the glass. Ask front of house “show man” Juanlu to suggest something for you.

Andalucia tapas 1Flamenquin con salmorejo (Cordoba) | Gazpachuelo (Malaga)
Andrajos (Jaen) | Tortilla de Sacromonte (Granada)

Flamenquin con salmorejo (Cordoba)
Two for the price of one here. Flamenquin is ham and cheese rolled up in batter and fried, and salmorejo is the traditional Cordobes cold tomato soup. Thicker and creamier than gazpacho, it’s one of my favourite sauces.

Gazpachuelo (Malaga)
From the name you might expect this to be a tomato soup, but this is from Malaga, so it’s actually a fish and prawn based soup with potatoes and mayonnaise.

Andrajos (Jaen)
Another of those really tasty dishes that the Spanish are able to cook up from very modest ingredients, in this case a bit of rabbit, some little flour cakes, in a vegetable sauce of onions, tomatoes, peppers, garlic and olive oil, and/or whatever else is at hand.

Tortilla de Sacromonte (Granada)
Well, it’s an omelette, of course, but not the more typical Andalucian potato omelette. This local variant particularly features sweetbreads. For the less squeamish that’s sheeps brains. I hadn’t had this before, but it was actually rather good. Admittedly I wouldn’t have known it included brains if someone hadn’t told me.

Andalucia tapas 2Olla de trigo (Almería) | Tortillitas de Camarones (Cádiz)
Huevos a la flamenca (Seville) | Habas con chocos (Huelva)

 Olla de trigo (Almería)
Literally a wheat pot. Another stew, this time of wheat, fleshed out (so to speak) with all those odd bits of pig that you have left over. Traditionally this includes the pig’s ear, which turned out to be quite tasty, though a little chewy.

Tortillitas de Camarones (Cadiz)
If you’re at all familiar with Spanish food you’ll already have tried these shrimp fritters, and experienced the crispy, crunchy goodness. And if you’ve tried them once you’ll probably be wanting some more.

Huevos a la flamenca (Seville)
A tomato and pepper sauce/stew topped with poached eggs. One of those traditional winter warmers that never fails to hit the spot.

Habas con chocos (Huelva)
And this is another warmer. A stew of broad beans with cuttlefish that sticks nicely to your sides.

Seville | The Pottery and Ceramics of Isabel Parente

Pottery is an essential architectural landmark in Seville, and you can find exquisite decoration everywhere, in a huge variety of different colours and styles. It can be like walking through an open-air museum. Unfortunately, because of industrialisation the techniques of handmaking pottery and ceramics were gradually being lost in the second half of the twentieth century, but more recently interest in the art has been reviving.

One of the artists at the forefront of this revival is Isabel Parente, who together with Salud Jimenez has been running a craft pottery workshop in Seville for the last 16 years. “Our handmade pottery was born from a love of the art, and from a concern not to lose the Sevillano ceramic tradition,” she says, “and we want to offer customers things they can’t normally find in the shops.” These include the bold, linear geometrical designs of the Islamic tradition, as well as the gentler curving shapes of the Italian renaissance and baroque.

In the video you can see them demonstrate some of the traditional techniques (for English subtitles use the captions icon), such as cuerda seca (dry rope), low relief, and stencilling and handpainting of pottery.

If you would like to buy one of these handcrafted pieces you can find their workshop at

ISABEL PARENTE
626 963 086
Calle Doña Maria Coronel 21
41003 Sevilla

Seville | Orange Days

Whether by chance or careful selection, Valentine’s day in Seville marks the start of the Third Annual Edition of Las Jornadas Gastronómicas de la Naranja, a culinary competition for creating tapas using bitter oranges, which this year boasts more than thirty participating tapas bars and restaurants, and will last ten days.

seville orange days

If you’ve ever been to Seville, or are a keen marmalade maker, you’ll already know that Seville is famous for its orange trees, which are harvested at this time of year. Despite the close association of Seville with oranges, they are not, in fact, native to this part of the world, but come originally from the Far East. The first orange trees in Seville are believed to have been planted in the 12th century, primarily for shade and decoration – bitter oranges were chosen so that people wouldn’t eat them off the trees! Even today, the biggest consumers are the English. Seville oranges are the best in the world for making marmalade!

orange harvestorange harvest in Plaza del Salvador

The tapas on offer include Iberian ham with orange sauce, roast beef and macerated orange in puff pastry, and an orange salmorejo with flakes of cod and leek.

There will be a panel of expert judges, but the public will also be able to vote for their favourite tapas (see the full list of participants below), which will give them a chance to win 1 of 10 hampers of orange goodies from local suppliers such as Basilippo, Inés Rosales and la Vieja Fábrica.

A rather nice touch is that on Feb 14 at Santa Justa, and Feb 17 at the airport, arrivals will be greeted with an orange and a brochure about the competition.

The Alfonso XIII hotel will host an orange products trade show on the 21st and a cooking demonstration on the 22nd, both events starting at midday.

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