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Posts tagged ‘market’

Seville | Day Trip to Triana

The neighbourhood, or barrio, of Triana lies across the River Guadalquivir from the city of Seville, and is often regarded, especially by the people who live there, as a separate city, quite distinct and different from its big sister Seville, and so if you have the time it’s worthwhile spending a day “across the river” soaking up some of its special atmosphere.

0131_betis-blue-1-01view of the Isabel (Triana) bridge from our Betis Blue apartment

The name is thought to derive from the Roman emperor, Trajano (pronounced Trahano in Spanish), who was born in Italica, the Roman city a little to the west of Seville. While it’s not known exactly how long there has been a settlement here, it’s certainly the oldest of the barrios outside the old city walls, dating back to at least Moorish times. It was in the late Moorish times that the first bridge across the river, the famous bridge of boats, was built (where the Isabella II bridge – usually referred to as Triana bridge – is now), with the original Castillo San Jorge, Saint George’s Castle, at its western end. It was then known as the Gypsy quarter, the Gypsies, or Gitanos, having arrived there sometime in the 15th century. As a poor neighbourhood it supplied many of the sailors who explored the New World, and was intimately connected with the worlds of flamenco and bullfighting, which offered a way out of what was effectively a ghetto.

manu jara dulceria (1)Manu Jara’s “dulcería”

Start your day out with churros and chocolate at the Seville end of the bridge, or some tasty pastries at Manu Jara in Calle Pureza (opens 10am, closed Mondays). Once properly fortified, it’s time to pay a visit to Triana market. Although this was substantially renovated some ten years ago, it still retains much of its traditional charm, with decorative tiled stall fronts (though the names now often don’t correspond to the business of particular stalls), and the colourful displays of fresh fruit, fish and other produce for which Spanish markets are justly famous. I rarely come to Triana without coming here, just for the enjoyment of strolling around until it’s beer o’clock and time for a little refreshment at one of the many market bars.

triana chapelThe market is built over the ruins of Saint George’s Castle, once the headquarters of the infamous Spanish Inquisition, and now a museum of tolerance. Emphasis here is on reflection of man’s inhumanity to man, so you won’t see any instruments of torture or other sensationalist displays, but rather an invitation to reflection on the cost of intolerance. Entrance is free, and for me it’s an interesting window on the past. Outside, stop and admire a different aspect of the religious impulse, the chapel of the Virgin of the Carmen designed by Anibál González.

Behind the market is what’s left of the old ceramics district. Although only a shadow of its former self, there are still some craft workshops and you can pick up a nice decorative piece or two as souvenirs. It’s also worth visiting the newly opened ceramics museum (in Calle Antillano Campos, next door to the famous Santa Ana ceramics shop), which I found fascinating, with examples of the old kilns and the equipment that was used, and something of the history of the industry.

castillo san jorge (2)Saint George’s Castle seen from the Isabel bridge

For lunch, walk up the main street of San Jacinto to Las Golondrinas (Pages del Corro, 76), or if you’re feeling adventurous check out Puratasca (Numancia, 5 – almost impossible to find) for innovative tapas in a wonderfully kitsch 70’s ambiance. For something more traditional try Sol y Sombra (Castilla 151) and their famous “solomillo al ajo”, with almost as many slow-cooked garlic cloves as pieces of pork tenderloin.

ceramics trianaceramics shop in Triana

In the evening the place to be is Calle Betis, the street that runs along the bank of the river opposite the bullring and Torre del Oro. It’s one of the best nightlife spots in Seville, with lots of bars and restaurants with terraces looking across to the old city where you can enjoy a beer or a glass of wine and some traditional seafood as the street gradually comes alive around you. My own favourite place is the Primera del Puente (Betis 66), which serves some of the best fish and seafood around. Tapas at the bar, or raciones on the riverside terrace, the quality is always excellent. Finish the evening at Lo Nuestro, a popular flamenco bar on Calle Betis, or at La Anselma on Pages del Corro.

0131_betis-blue-1-apartment-14view of Betis street from the “other side” of the river, Seville

Of course you could live like a local in one of our excellent holiday apartments in Triana, and take day trips across the bridge to Seville. Take a stroll with us through Triana on our short video.

Seville | Christmas Craft Market

christmas market 2012The annual Christmas craft market, organised by the Federación Artesanal de Sevilla (FAS), has become a fixture on the list of seasonal events in Seville. This year’s is the 13th and is being held in the Plaza Nueva from December 14 to January 5 . It’s 72 stalls showcase the work of local craftsmen working in ceramics, jewellery, leather, textiles, wood, paper and bookbinding, glass, metal and artworks, making it an excellent place to come for a gift that’s just that little bit different from the standard fare in most of the shops. Browsing around these eclectic collections, you never know quite what you will find. It may be some colourful multi-coloured handbags or traditional wooden children’s toys, printed silks or eco-friendly cosmetics, but there’s always that “That’s the perfect gift!” moment waiting for you somewhere.

christmas market victoriaJewellery is always one of the biggest sellers, and if you’re looking for some new earrings or a necklace, there’s plenty to choose from. Some very nice peices in silver, ceramic, and other materials can be found at Líbelulalíla (stand 72), all designed and made by owner Victoria Fuello.

christmas market saludPerhaps a brightly coloured ceramic bowl or jar with a renaissance or colourful mudejar (Islamic) style abstract design is more to your liking. You can find some striking examples at Isabel Parente (stand 65), who also restores old pieces too.

christmas market norbertoFor a classy memento of your stay in Seville, pay a visit to Norler Grabados (stand 8), and have a look at his prints from original engravings showing scenes of Seville and other Spanish themes.

Go in the evening and you can also enjoy the Christmas lights along Avenida Constitución and Calle Sierpes, or see the Ayuntamiento as you’ve never seen it before with the “Mapping” projection show in Plaza San Francisco. The Christmas season in Seville is not to be missed.

Christmas Craft Market
Plaza Nueva
December 14th, 2012 to January 5th, 2013
Closed Christmas Day and New Year’s Day