{"id":957,"date":"2012-08-08T15:05:42","date_gmt":"2012-08-08T15:05:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.veoapartment.com\/blog\/?p=957"},"modified":"2013-03-24T15:16:31","modified_gmt":"2013-03-24T15:16:31","slug":"seville-48-hours-in-the-city","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.veoapartment.com\/blog\/seville-48-hours-in-the-city\/","title":{"rendered":"Seville | 48 Hours in the City"},"content":{"rendered":"

We have another guest post this week, this time from former Londoner
\nand long-term Seville resident Peter Tatford, aka Seville Concierge<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

With an enticing combination of historical atmosphere, fine weather, local colour, and a growing reputation for good food and wine, Seville<\/strong> has become one of Europe’s top destinations for short break holidays. If you’re travelling with a family or as a group, or simply want more independence than a hotel gives you, renting a self-catering holiday apartment may well be a good option, and there are plenty to choose from in Seville.<\/p>\n

The labyrinth of small narrow streets can make Seville a difficult city to find your way around, so you’ll need a good map. A thoughtful apartment owner should provide one, or you can get one from the main\u00a0Tourism Office<\/strong> in the Plaza San Francisco<\/strong>, on the corner next to Bar Laredo. The staff there are very helpful and you can also use the computers. There is another office on the Avenida de la Constituci\u00f3n\u00a0<\/strong>near the Puerta de Jerez.<\/p>\n

Here is my quick guide to getting the best out of a two-night stay in Seville.<\/p>\n


\nDay One <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Afternoon<\/strong>
\nOn your first day in a strange city it’s a good idea to get a sense of direction. In Seville the main axis runs from the geographical centre of the city at Plaza del Duque<\/strong> (with El Corte Ingl\u00e9s department store) and La Campana<\/strong>, along the two parallel main shopping streets of Tetuan<\/strong> and Sierpes<\/strong>\u00a0to the Plaza Nueva<\/strong> (the big open square with the statue in the middle) and Plaza San Francisco<\/strong> (the much older cobbled square on the other side of the town hall), and on to the Avenida de la Constituci\u00f3n<\/strong>, the modern-looking street with the trams that runs to the Puerta de Jerez<\/strong>, passing in front of your first stop, the Cathedral<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

The statistics are all about size \u2013 the largest gothic cathedral and third largest church in the world, with the largest gold altarpiece \u2013 but none of that tells you about the sense of space that you get inside, or the artistic treasures it’s home to. Look out for the Tomb of Christopher Columbus<\/strong>, and for something more whimsical, the crocodile. Climbing the city’s most famous icon, the Giralda tower<\/strong> is a must (it has ramps rather than stairs, so it’s not too arduous), both so you can say you’ve done it, and also for the views, which are the best in Seville. The tower and the Patio de los Naranjos<\/strong> are all that remains of the Grand Mosque that occupied the site until the beginning of the 15th century, when work began on the new cathedral.<\/p>\n

Cathedral (including the Giralda Tower)
\nAvda de la Constituci\u00f3n
\nOpening hours: Sep-June Mon-Sat 11.00-17.30 \/ Suns 14.30-18.30
\nJuly and August Mon-Sat 09.30-16.30 Suns \/ 14.30-18.30
\nEntrance \u20ac8, Pensioners and students \u20ac3, Free to residents, disabled and under 15s<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Behind the cathedral is the Plaza Virgen de los Reyes<\/strong>, probably one of the most beautiful squares in the world, encircled by the Cathedral<\/strong>, the Archbishop’s Palace<\/strong>, and the Church of Santa Marta<\/strong>, and with its gargoyle fountain and farola (literally streetlamp, but it loses something in the translation) in the centre. There will soon be a new statue installed of Pope John Paul II.\u00a0Opposite the cathedral is Mateos Gago street, until a hundred years ago the only way into the Barrio Santa Cruz<\/strong>. This would be a good time for a short siesta in preparation for your first night on the town.<\/p>\n

Evening<\/strong>
\nA great way to get your bearings, experience a proper Sevillian “tapeo” (tapas crawl) and try some of the best food Seville has to offer, is to take one of Shawn Hennessey’s excellent Sevilla Tapas Tours<\/a><\/strong>. You’ll eat like a local and learn a lot about Spanish food and wine.<\/p>\n

Day Two<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Morning<\/strong>
\nStart the day with the best tostadas and coffee in Seville at the Horno San Buenaventura<\/a><\/strong>. Sit at the bar with the locals where the service is faster and cheaper, and order your coffee “en vaso” (in a glass). You can also choose something from the pastry counter to keep you going through the morning.<\/p>\n

From here, turn right onto Constituci\u00f3n and go round the cathedral into the Plaza Triunfo<\/strong> and the Alc\u00e1zar Royal Palace and Gardens<\/strong> (Reales Alc\u00e1zares).\u00a0This is undoubtedly the city’s number one tourist attraction, and it’s not hard to see why. The impressive outer walls date from the Moorish period, and the main palace from the mid-14th century, about a hundred years after the Christian reconquest. It was built by Peter the Cruel, and is one of the best examples of mudejar-style architecture in Spain, full of fabulous tiled courtyards and amazing ceilings. In the gardens look for the Baths of Do\u00f1a Mar\u00eda Padilla<\/strong>, the Pool of Mercury<\/strong>, and the Wall of the Grotesques<\/strong>. You can expect to spend at least two hours here, and it’s worth investing in an audio guide, which has lots of information without being overwhelming.<\/p>\n

Plaza del Triunfo
\nOpening hours Oct-Mar 9.30-17.00 Apr-Sep 9.30-19.00
\nClosed Jan 1,6 Good Friday and Dec 25
\nEntrance \u20ac8.50 Pensioners and students \u20ac2 Free to residents, disabled and under 16s<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

When you exit the palace you will find yourself in the orange-tree-lined Patio de Banderas<\/strong>. From here turn right under the arches and take in the picturesque atmosphere of the old Jewish quarter of the city, with its narrow streets, small squares, orange trees and balconies. This is a great area to just wander round, but look out for the Plazas Do\u00f1a Elvira<\/strong> and Los Refinadores<\/strong> and Calle Agua<\/strong> (Water Street) beside the old wall in particular, and take a detour into the Murillo Gardens<\/strong>, just because they’re there.<\/p>\n

Afternoon<\/strong>
\nAt the northern end of the Murillo Gardens you’ll find one of my favourite tapas bars in the Paseo Catalina de Ribera. Vineria San Telmo<\/a><\/strong> has a special buzzy atmosphere, a terrific eclectic menu and attentive international staff.<\/p>\n

From the Vineria it’s a short walk to the Plaza de Espa\u00f1a<\/strong> in Maria Luisa Park<\/strong>. Designed by Seville’s most famous architect, An\u00edbal Gonz\u00e1lez<\/strong>\u00a0for the 1929 Ibero-American exhibition, it’s an ornately columned semi-circular building with representations of all the provinces of Spain, around a grand plaza with a central fountain, and a boating lake with bridges, all with a great profusion of colourful ceramic decoration. Depending on the time and the weather an alternative route back is across the park to the river, and along the river bank to the Palacio San Telmo<\/strong> (unfortunately not open to the public), and the Torre del Oro<\/strong>, another of the city’s icons.<\/p>\n

Evening<\/strong>
\nNo holiday in Seville would be complete without taking in a flamenco show. A particularly good one can be enjoyed at the Flamenco Museum<\/a><\/strong>. Unlike at the other venues, this one is early enough in the evening that you can comfortably see the show and have dinner afterwards.<\/p>\n

Museo de Baile Flamenco
\nManuel Rojas Marcos, 3
\nOpening hours 9.30-19.00 (museum) 19.00- 20.00 (show)
\nEntrance \u20ac10, students \u20ac8, children \u20ac6, groups \u20ac8 per person<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Splash out for some gourmet tapas at La Azotea<\/a><\/strong>, where you are guaranteed to have some of the most innovative and tasty tapas in town. They don’t take bookings so be sure to get there at opening time (8.30 pm) to get a table.<\/p>\n

After dinner, it’s time to finish your day with a touch of style. These days there are plenty of rooftop bars where you can enjoy a late cocktail or two while taking in lovely views but one of my favourites is in the Hotel Do\u00f1a Maria<\/strong> in Calle Remondo, just off the Plaza Virgen de los Reyes behind the cathedral.<\/p>\n

Day Three<\/span>
\nMorning<\/strong>
\nTime to try some churros and chocolate (or with coffee if you prefer). One very traditional place near your final “must see” is the Centurion Bar<\/strong> in the Plaza Encarnaci\u00f3n<\/strong> just behind the market.\u00a0After breakfast it’s time for something completely different \u2013 and this place would be completely different anywhere in the world.<\/p>\n

The Metropol Parasol, \u00a0<\/strong>or “Las Setas” (mushrooms), as they are known locally for reasons that will be obvious when you see them, have only been open for two years, but have already helped breathe new life into this neighbourhood of Seville. Not only do these huge waffle-like creations make up the largest wooden structure in the world, they also serve practical functions. At ground level they house the Encarnaci\u00f3n Market<\/strong>, worth visiting for the colourful and occasionally exotic displays of fresh fruit and veg, fish and seafood, and meats and charcuterie. Below ground level is the Antiquarium<\/strong>, a well thought out museum of mainly Roman ruins, including some well-preserved mosaics. Take the lift from this basement level to the top where there are great views of the city from the walkways, and enjoy a bite at Gastrosol<\/a><\/strong> where you can find anything from fried fish and charcuterie to gourmet burgers and designer tapas.<\/p>\n

Espacio Metropol Parasol
\nPlaza de la Encarnaci\u00f3n
\nOpening hours: (Miradores) Sun-Thur 10.30-00.00 Fri-Sat 10.30-01.00
\n(Antiquarium) Mon-Sat10.00-20.00 \/ Sun 10.00-14.00pm \/ closed on Mondays<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"\"
\nPeter Tatford<\/strong>
\n Seville Concierge<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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