Triana is just over the Guadalquivir River, though by crossing you find yourself in an area quite unlike any other in the city. Locals when asked where they are from will always say Triana rather than Seville, and they are fiercely proud of their neighbourhood.
Historically the area was associated with Sailors, and the Capilla de los Marineros - or Sailors Chapel - houses the image of Our Lady of Hope, popularly known as Esperanza de Triana, one of Seville's most important religious icons.
Flamenco, ceramics and pottery have traditionally played an important part here, and this is still true today. There are many small Flamenco tablaos - or bars with live performances - and schools in the area. Calle Alfarería - which translates as Pottery Street - is lined with ceramicist and potters' workshops and showrooms.
Fish and seafood specialists with a regularly changing menu. Small bar, but with a large outdoor terrace, and a dining room across the square for if you're unlucky with the weather.
Address: Peñaflor, 5
Phone: +34 657 633 708
Faro de Triana
The landmark location at the Triana end of the Isabel II bridge make this a perfect stopping point before or after a little shopping in the market or in the ceramics district.
Address: Puente Isabel II
La Primera del Puente
For consistently good quality and value seafood this is the place to come. Choose between tapas in the spacious bar, or raciones on the riverside terrace across the street.
Address: Betis, 66
Phone: +34 954 276 918
There are actually two Golondrinas, and this is the second, newer one. Tapas at the bar, or at the couple of tall tables outside, are consistently good and value for money. You can also have raciones sitting down in the mezzanine.
Address: Pages del Corro, 76
Phone: +34 954 338 235
Sol y Sombra
Super-traditional feria and bullfight themed neighbourhood bar with some excellent tapas.
Address: Castilla, 149-151
Phone: +34 954 333 935
Running alongside the Guadalquivir is Calle Betis, a street with wonderful views towards Seville's most famous sights - the Cathedral, Giralda Tower, the Maestranza Bullring and the Torre del Oro. Bars and Cafés line the street on one side, and are packed after-hours. At the Plaza de Cuba end, there are a couple of spots right on the river edge. Triana is also a popular destination to see Flamenco.
Disco for the younger ones, below 30.
Address: Betis, 65
Puerto de Cuba
Terrace with music. Opens at night. Nice setting next to the river, with beautiful views towards the centre.
Peculiar flamenco bar. The owner "Anselma" herself is the main entertainer. Opens very late, at around 11pm. Mainly tourists, but also locals from Triana.
Address: Pages del Corro 49
Supermercado El Jamón
Medium sized supermarket.
Address: Pagés del Corro, 56
Medium sized supermarket.
Address: Febo, 5
Discounter supermarket, known for its cheap prices.
Address: Evangelista, 53
Very long opening hours, also on Sunday, 8:00-2:00, Mon-Sun.
Address: República Argentina, 27
Mercado de Triana
Municipal food market. Opens only in the morning until approx. 13.00, Mon-Sat.
Address: Plaza del Altozano, s/n (at the corner of Isabel II bridge)
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